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Cranks but wont start

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Cranks but wont start - 1/1/2008 10:02:36 AM   
74chevy4life

 

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Ok So heres the deal...I have a 2001 Chevy S-10 with a 2.2L flex fuel engine...On really cold days usally below 32 degrees the truck wont start. When i turn the key the engine just cranks and cranks but will not start. I know there is a technical service bulletin out on these trucks the TSB number is 201220...but I dont have access to the full bulletin. if anyone else has had this problem or as access to TSB's please help. All help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Doug
Post #: 1
RE: Cranks but wont start - 1/4/2008 11:24:57 AM   
74chevy4life

 

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Well ill put some more info up...I have replaced the MAP sensor. Checked the fuel pressure it is 51psi with key on engine off and 59/60psi with engine on...I am in the process of checking the Air intake temp sensor...I have checked the battery and it is good...Any tips on where to go next or any ideas what the problem is? any and all help would be greatly appreciated

(in reply to 74chevy4life)
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RE: Cranks but wont start - 1/21/2008 6:42:40 AM   
74chevy4life

 

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UPDATE: today it was 10 degrees...and my stuck would not startt so I am back at square one. if anyone was any idea of what the problem is all help will be appreciated

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RE: Cranks but wont start - 1/21/2008 8:15:24 PM   
shawnvw

 

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This was the only bulletin regarding a cold weather no start...hope it helps







Subject:
Crank No Start When Cold Due To Compression Loss - keywords cylinder cylinderhead extended hard head lifter loss #PIP3146B - (11/09/2006)





Models:
2000-2007 All Passenger Cars with Gasoline Engines





2000-2007 All Light Duty Trucks with Gasoline Engines





The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern:
Crank no start when cold. The engine may crank over very fast, as if there is low/no compression. It may also run rough for up to 5 minutes after starting the engine and may exhibit a P0300 DTC too. This may be caused by sticking valves due to fuel contamination. When the engine is cold, the compression on multiple cylinders may be at 0 PSI. The engine also may pop through the intake or exhaust while cranking and the spark plugs may be fuel fouled when inspected. Some engines may also experience valve damage or cam followers that are out of position as a result of this.
This condition will normally occur in specific areas of the country for a period of time and then it will no longer occur after the suspect fuel source has been consumed in that area of the country.
Recommendation/Instructions:
If the SI Diagnosis lead to a compression loss due to sticking valves, the following information may help:
If there is no sign of valve damage or cam followers that are out of place, perform the following procedure to free up sticking valves and to prevent the valves from sticking again. If valve damage is present or if there are cam followers that are out of place, perform engine mechanical repairs as necessary to correct the concern and then perform the procedure below to prevent the valves from sticking again.
    Clean the fuel system by following the applicable "Fuel System Cleaning" procedure outlined in SI.
    Add fuel injector cleaner "GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS, P/N 88861011 (for U.S. ACDelcoŽ, use 88861013) (in Canada, 88861012)" . . . see bulletin # 05-00-89-078A, to the fuel tank in the approved quantities.
    Refill the fuel tank using fuel from a high volume, high quality filling station.
    Clean the induction system using GM Top Engine Cleaner. Follow the directions on the can but DO NOT force the engine to stall since forcing the engine to stall with liquid Top Engine Cleaner could cause the engine to hydro-lock.
    Advise the customer to change fuel filling stations. They should use fuel from only high volume, high quality filling stations or they should use a Top Tier Detergent Gasoline if available. See 04-06-04-047F (U.S.) or 05-06-04-022B (Canada) for details regarding Top Tier Detergent Gasolines.

Note:  If the condition is not eliminated chemically, it may be necessary to remove the valves to manually clean the stems.
Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.




GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer".  They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle.  Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely.  If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition.  See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.


WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION

(in reply to 74chevy4life)
Post #: 4
RE: Cranks but wont start - 1/24/2008 6:44:59 PM   
troll646

 

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i'm having the same problem, but mine is not temperature related i don't think.

1997 S10 4.3FI  "X" vin ex-cab  109,000 miles

ok if i turn the key into the on position and my cluster lights DO NOT come on my truck will kill the battery trying to start it, (it will turn over but it will not start)  but if i turn the key into the on position again (maybe after 2 or 3 times turning it off and on) and when the cluster lights DO COME ON the truck will start no problem.

my problem is now my cluster lights will not come on at all and my truck will not start.
just hoping someone could help me out.
Thanks


(in reply to shawnvw)
Post #: 5
RE: Cranks but wont start - 1/28/2008 5:26:48 PM   
shawnvw

 

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sounds like a bad ignition switch. Test the wires coming from the switch to make sure you have ign and accesory and start on the wires.

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Post #: 6
RE: Cranks but wont start - 1/28/2008 7:13:28 PM   
troll646

 

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would this be the correct switch you are talking about.

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=GPS&MfrPartNumber=S193&PartType=410&PTSet=A

(in reply to shawnvw)
Post #: 7
RE: Cranks but wont start - 1/29/2008 6:29:06 PM   
shawnvw

 

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that does look like the one.
did you test the wires? don't just replace the switch without testing as it may not be what is wrong

here is a list of colors you will find and what they do

red - B+
red\white - B+
yellow - starter
white - IGN
brown - accy
orange - accy

(in reply to troll646)
Post #: 8
RE: Cranks but wont start - 1/29/2008 7:42:42 PM   
74chevy4life

 

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hey glad to see this thread finally take off!!! I have been fighting this problem for 2 winters now. I am going to look into the Compression issue as soon as i have a chance to get home (i am away at college) and i was starting to think that it was the ignition switch b/c some days if i give the tuck a shake (usally with anger) sometimes it will start so i am deffinately thinking there is a bad connection somewhere

(in reply to shawnvw)
Post #: 9
RE: Cranks but wont start - 1/31/2008 3:13:28 AM   
troll646

 

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Joined: 1/24/2008
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: shawnvw

that does look like the one.
did you test the wires? don't just replace the switch without testing as it may not be what is wrong

here is a list of colors you will find and what they do

red - B+
red\white - B+
yellow - starter
white - IGN
brown - accy
orange - accy


ok cool, but the only thing i have is a test light will that work?

if so should i try testing the wires with the switch off and then on?

one more thing.. i have a factory security system installed.  heres a pic of my fuse box.
i'm thinking thats the wire for the securty system. this system didn't come with any kind of remote button.
if can see it. one of the wires is in the #10 fuse slot.  thats the ECM.


fuse box map




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Post #: 10
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