Desperately need help with 1998 S-10

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Desperately need help with 1998 S-10

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Chevrolet Forums >> Chevy Trucks, Vans & SUV's >> S-10 & Blazer >> Desperately need help with 1998 S-10

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Desperately need help with 1998 S-10 - 7/9/2006 3:57:57 PM

golfman56

Posts: 3
Joined: 7/9/2006
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My 98 S-10 with the 2.2 engine has let me down.It started buck jumping when I would slow down and start to accelerate again.Got worse after a few days.Just before it gave up the ghost it would start but not accelerate axcept after feathering the gas pedal and clutch pedal.Finally quit altogether.After towing it home I pulled the gas filter and the gas in the filter was black as coal.A friend told me this was a sign of sugar in the gas.Huh? If it was sugar wouldn't it quit before a weeks worth of driving.The fuel pump runs when the switch is turned on till the pressure comes up.I"ve checked the timing and valves.It has fire to the plugs.What can I check next? I'm on a limited budget and can't afford hundreds of dollars to take it to a service center.I just spent nearly $1,000 to get it running and after only about 3,000 miles it has quit totally.Thanks if anyone can offer suggestions.

Post #: 1

RE: Desperately need help with 1998 S-10 - 7/11/2006 8:37:45 PM

kcb37

Posts: 504
Joined: 7/3/2006
Status: offline

I would change the filter if you haven't already, I have not heard about the sugar before.(but that could very well be true) It wouldn't hurt to drain the tank after that. It you have done this or at least changed the filter, you should have a realease valve on the fuel rail(s). It will look like a valve core on a tire after you take the cap off. It is used to purge air. If you get any kind of discolored or dirty gas there you need to completely clean your fuel system. I would also check your fuel pressure. You could also have cloged injectors. Start with that and let us know.

(in reply to golfman56)

Post #: 2

RE: Desperately need help with 1998 S-10 - 7/11/2006 8:59:32 PM

golfman56

Posts: 3
Joined: 7/9/2006
Status: offline

Thanks.I checked and bled off some air bubbles but still wont start.The filter was changed and is free flowing.I haven't worked on a vehicle in several years and all this stuff is Greek to me.Is the pressure checked at the mentioned port? Are the pressure gauges very expensive? If inspecting the injectors are there precautions? Can they be dissassembled and assembled by shadetrees? Is there a pressure regulator somewhere downline to check or is it built into the fuel pump unit? Thanks again.

(in reply to kcb37)

Post #: 3

RE: Desperately need help with 1998 S-10 - 7/13/2006 1:22:25 AM

kcb37

Posts: 504
Joined: 7/3/2006
Status: offline

I don't know how much a pressure gauge cost, I haven't had to use one yet. I think it will screw into that port. Not sure. As far as inspecting injectors you may be able to pull one out and turn the engine over. I know on a desiel engine you have to be very careful with this due to the high pressure in the lines. Your's shouldn't be so bad, but I would still make sure it is not pointed at anyone or anything important. Once you get it out use a gatorade bottle or something to shoot it into, if it shoots a stream they will need replaced or cleaned. They should spray a mist. I don't think they can be rebuilt. I have never tried so I don't know. And yes it should have a pressure regulator on it. If you don't already have a Haynes or Chilton Manual I would suggest getting one. They can be very useful. They will tell you what your fuel pressure should be at. I think for a novice mechanic the Haynes books are easier to read, but the Chiltons seems to be more detailed. If you have let air out of the system at the fuel rail bleed valve(said port above) Your next step should be somewhere around a pressure regulator or injectors. Keep in mind I am not looking in a book to answer your questions, and I am not a master mechanic. This is what I am thinking off the top of my head. You may want to look at your air filter too. Altought that would have to be pretty bad to keep it from even starting. Is your engine light on? If you are getting fuel, fire, and air, it could also be something like a crank or cam sensor telling the computor they are not in the right position. You will need a book to tell you how to check those. That may also have the computer telling the injecotrs not to spray. I think it would tell it not to fire though. I know on the older ones if some parts of the ignition system goes out it wont get any fuel.
Good luck let me know what you find. I will help if I can.

(in reply to golfman56)

Post #: 4

RE: Desperately need help with 1998 S-10 - 7/13/2006 7:01:44 AM

golfman56

Posts: 3
Joined: 7/9/2006
Status: offline

Thanks for taking the time to help.Yesterday I finally got it to start but doesn't want to rev up and it falters and stumbles.While running at idle I removed the radiator cap and observed air bubbles coming out the neck of the radiator.Then when it started getting hot the aintifreeze shout out about 3 feet in the air.Watching the gauge I noticed it was getting hot.I shut it down immediately.It didn't get hot on other occassions when the trouble began.At this time should I consider a blown head gasket or maybe a cracked head? I have had to top of the tank two times in the past six or seven months.Btu it never got hot then just a little low on coolant.I have a Chiltons repair manual I am going to start looking at in a few minutes.Thanks again.

(in reply to kcb37)

Post #: 5

RE: Desperately need help with 1998 S-10 - 7/13/2006 10:44:13 PM

kcb37

Posts: 504
Joined: 7/3/2006
Status: offline

If you have had to add coolant it could be a blown head gasket. It may be a crakced head, but more likely a head gasket. Do you have any coolant in your oil? Was your Exhaust smoking? What color was the exhaust. Blue is oil, black is fuel, and white is coolant. You may be leaking when it gets hot and put some pressure on the hoses. Not wanting to rev sounds like a throttle positioning sensor or something like that. If it shot coolant that high, (never run anything that long without a cap on) It could have a sticky thermostat, that broke lose when it got hot. That would explain why it shot so high.
Good Luck!

(in reply to golfman56)

Post #: 6