hydrogen - Page 6

when you introduce hho into the engine the air/fuel ratio gauges will not pick it up. Burns clean. So it will read lean.  You need a wide ban scanner to read it. $$$$$ the efie is a good idea except I have a problem. It tells the computer (tricks it) into thinking there is enough fuel. But lets say your HHO is cold or not running right. What then?
 
At the moment I am seeing results so I will stick with it for now.
 
I am using 4" PVC pipe with end caps. One end has a threaded end cap. It is about 14" high. But I may start to build smaller systems and put them where the battery is. Move the battery  to the back and add a second battery run a cable to the front.
 
But small steps is what I am taking right now.

Have you tried putting your unit under pressure, to see if if could hold it?

rt put some pictures up if you can

My system:

I just talked with the manifacturer of the air/fuel gauges I bought and they told me that they will not work on a wideband O2 sensor, which is good because I have a narrowband O2. So I am asuming that the gauge will properly when I install it. If it does work, then I should be able to tell what the pre-EFIE reading is and adjust it (using the EFIE) and then should be able to tell what the post-EFIE reading is so I can make sure that I get a properly adjusted signal to the ECM. 

Oh I see what you are doing this way you are in constant control. That will work. What gauges are you using?
 
No I did not put pressure on the tank. I did plow into it and sealed of the outlet to see if there were leaks but now there are no leaks.
 
I have a one way pass valve on the bottom so when the unit heats up pressure builds in the tank as it cools there is a vacuum when the air condenses.
 
It can not pull from the top because of that one way pass valve. This caused my lid to pull down and dimple.
 
Check this out
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pEC-swbpSpw

 The gauges I will be using are from cyberdine (got them from JC Whitneys). If I can get it to work properly the hydrogen gennerator will be under pressure and then using that pressure use a propane mixer designed for my engine to introduce the hydrogen. IF I can do this I will be implimenting safety checks to shut the system down in case of malfunction (i.e. a pressure release valve, and pressure shut off switch,.....).  

You have a link for those gauges?
 
Also what kind of pressure are you talking about?

Here is the link: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ProductBrowse?storeId=10101&Pr=p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2008854&productId=2008854&catalogId=10101
 
I need to call Impco to see what kind of pressure is needed to support the propane mixer, but the book I am building this thing from says that it can get up to 75 psi and in the design has a pressure relief valve set at 85 psi. I know the pvc can hold the pressure, my grandfather used it to plumb his workshop for air hoses, and those are at least 125psi and schedule 40. What I need is less than 125psi and I will be using schedule 80, so I think it will hold it.

Some more progress!!!! What I did today was build a pressure test unit. I took four plates and hooked up a positive to one side and a neg. to the other and then put them in to a 4" schedule 40 pvc and put a pvc cap on both ends. In one of the cap I attached a pressure gauge, and here are the results. I was able to build up 75psi!!! The next test will be how long it can hold the pressure.

The only thing I keep thinking about is the fact you are purposely build HHO pressure. If you are doing this find a way to keep you power leads at the bottom. Reason it if for some reason they spark BOOOM. Big time. Submerged if they spark less chance of a problem.
 
I just got finished adding a second HHO booster to the blazer. I moved the bubbler closer to the engine. And in place added the second unit. I only brought it up to 8amps cold for now. I want to bring the other unit down to 15amps warm.
 
I opened the first unit today to see how everything was. Only used about 200ml of water in 4 days. Not bad.
 
I will get pictures tomorrow.
 
I drove it around a little but the older unit is pulling too strong for 2 to be running. I did not put them in series. Just playing with it for now.

The power leads in the test unit were at the bottom, and they will be at the bottom of the main unit when I get it built. But still 75psi is pretty good, that means I can get the pressure, but the next issue is how fast can I build up the pressure vs. using it up.

Its good to see you guys are making progress, I was looking to get a lot done on mine this weekend but my daughter got the Chickem pox .  Well maybe Ill have some pics and results in the next couple weeks to share.

GM is working just as hard as you guys also.  I am very interested in this idea -- I love the pic.'s ---- I am thinking about starting to build one also Thanks all for the info and If I start building I will post pics and questins

http://www.autocar.co.uk/News/NewsArticle/AllCars/232096/

Well, after 18 hours of being under pressure its still has 50 psi of pressure in it! Pretty good! I have noticed that the rate of decompression has slowed way down, the first hour it loss 5 psi, the second hour it lost 4 psi more, and in the last three hours it has only lost about 2 psi.

Well after 24 hours the test unit is maintaining a pressure of 50 psi.

What cap do you have on the Tube?
 
I am having trouble with that cap with internal threads even with tape.

 
You might be having the same problem. I built the unit using the first image and should have used the second.
 
I looked for the second type at lowes and HD but could not find them.
 

The test unit I used glue on caps but when build the main unit the end joints will be capped with threaded ends like the "better" image. The problem I had was that I could not find a local seller that carried threaded caps like that, so I had to order them from: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/default.asp . These threaded caps are like $26 a piece for 4". 

there is a plumbing supply next to my job. I will try to get in there on Monday. I will ask sealing some questions

Big time problem--- I have been looking into the fact that since we are messing with the emissions could there be trouble with that.  The EPS told me today that if an aftermarket product is installed on a vehicle that does not have EPA or CARB approval that messes with emissions that would be considered tampering and you could be fined up to 10K!!!! Yikes.  Here is some more info on it:
http://www.epa.gov:80/otaq/consumer/reports.htm
Also if you search for memo 1 on that site there is more info but I cant find that link right now.  Anyone hear anything else on that?  I have a few more messages to different departments right now to get some more specifics.  I just worry as this catches on more the government might start cracking down to set an example.

So far my plan is to take the truck to the "good ol' boy" smog tester in town (who wouldn't care), and I'll just turn the system off to do the test.
 
I think its a bunch of crap that we can't make alterations to get better gas milage, espeically when gas is $3-4 a gallon. I thought the idea as a country to get away from importing forgein oil, plus cutting back on smog.

I totally agree, its all politics.  The automakers have had the ability to do this ten times better years ago.  Problem is the government, automakers and the oil companies are all in bed together.  I used to live in a small town where that would work but now in a big city we dont have anymore little guys its all government run agencies that do the testing.  There has to be a way this can be legal ecspecially with the gas prices now.

The only other way I can think of is to take out the main parts when you go to do the test and then put them back in when you pass.

Well I think that big business is backing the entire thing. We are not pulling emission products off the car. In fact we are making them more efficient.
 
I Guess I will be in big trouble for my next project.
 
A full EV conversion.
 
No Exhaust, No Gas Tank, No Emissions.
I better look out.

quote:

ORIGINAL: northey87

So far my plan is to take the truck to the "good ol' boy" smog tester in town (who wouldn't care), and I'll just turn the system off to do the test.

I think its a bunch of crap that we can't make alterations to get better gas milage, espeically when gas is $3-4 a gallon. I thought the idea as a country to get away from importing forgein oil, plus cutting back on smog.

 
I agree with you. This depends on the state you are in, but a permit to run veggie oil in a diesel costs like $2500 (to cover the road tax you miss out on paying I'm sure.)  Which is why more people don't do it.
You can buy a converter still for $1000 from freefuelamerica and make it for .70 per gallon, but still looking at about 900 gallons before it pays for itself.