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EuroGoldLS
7/1/2008 2:52:51 PM
You can jump the signal wire for the fuel pump relay to your generator relay instead of a switch. I''ll have to map out a schematic on paper to figure out how to do it in conjunction with the switch. You''ll have to have some way to override it...
ehhget
7/2/2008 11:01:29 AM
Hmmmmmm.........
rtsurfer
7/2/2008 11:31:07 AM
There should be fuel pump relay in the fuse box under the hood on the drivers side
 
Standing next to the fender I put a jumper off the bottom right hand side of the relay.
 
THe relay sits behnd the fuse box. So it is easy to runn that wire.
 
I alsoran 2 relays. one 30-40amp and one 60amp.
 
I split the juice between them.
rtsurfer
7/2/2008 11:32:43 AM
Before you ask. I am only running a max at 25amps. After an hour of driving. But my 30min drive everyday only get up to 20amps in the morning and 22amps on the way home.
 
 
guvner
7/25/2008 9:31:52 PM
Anyone with any concrete results that are repeatable?
 
Guvner..
BassinProf
7/26/2008 3:39:04 PM
Does that surprise you Guvner?  This is why scams exist.  People who get ripped off are too embarrassed to admit they were scammed.
northey87
7/26/2008 5:46:45 PM
Nothing good comes from rushing, anything. I personally have not been able to work on my because of summer work and I had to leave it behind till sept.
 
P.S. Don''t change the title, it may confuse people.
rtsurfer
7/28/2008 8:16:57 AM
Huh
 
My best recording was 25.25mpg city
 
I have spent the past few weeks redoing and designing a better system.
 
Just finish last night.
 
I am now running a second battery (1000amps) which is not connected to the car. It is only there to run the boosters. So no drain on the aternator when the system is running. I will just plug the batery in at night. I may go to a solar battery charge during the day.
 
I am running 2 systems each cold start at 13-14amps and after 1/2hr running only got to 16-18amps. And I just tested the battery and still have 12.5v
 
I do not know how long the system can run on its own but I can guess a few hours without recharge.
 
I did not record hydrogen output yet but best guess is 2liter per minute when running.
 
I am also running an EFIE of the same battery. So there is no drain on atlernator there either.
 
So over all I will not have results until the end of the week. But this is an over all improvement in the last system.
 
I will post overall design changes I have made at end of week.
rtsurfer
7/28/2008 3:09:07 PM
After the 40min drive home I still had 32amps(16amps each cell) when I got home I tested the battery and it had 11.5v still.

I tested the HHO output and got 1.7liters (850ml each). I still have room for alittle more amps up to 20amps each but as of right now they are only at 13ish cold and 15-16after the 40minute drive.

Still over all everything worked perfect. No drain on the alternator or electrical on the car.

And Best of all not one SES light.
BassinProf
7/30/2008 11:25:08 PM
quote:

ORIGINAL: rtsurfer

I am now running a second battery (1000amps) which is not connected to the car. It is only there to run the boosters. So no drain on the aternator when the system is running. I will just plug the batery in at night. I may go to a solar battery charge during the day.


 
Now you''re talking.  I was ridiculed 6 pages ago for suggesting this very strategy.  I''m still skeptical but at least this new approach doesn''t amount to a perpetual motion machine.  Hydrogen is merely an energy transfer medium, not a net energy source.  Household electrical current is way cheaper than gas, so it''s an energy transfer that makes sense in the long run if it can be done safely and without damaging your engine, that is.
 
rtsurfer
7/31/2008 12:05:12 PM
Did BassinProf just agree to somthing? Only Kidding
 
After numerous test I really dug in witht he meter to find out what goes on. I found the drain on the electrical from the unit did effect different sensors by a mv drain.
 
My mpg test from Wednesday got 25.15mpg. I am still sure the o2 sensors are the result of not getting better gas milage. And I am not sure they are true Oxygen sensors. Even though everything I have read says heated oxygen sensor.
 
The ecu sends a voltage to the O2sensors on the white wire (around .65-.7mv). This does vary with engine RPM. The O2 sensors modifieds that voltage and the varies from .2mv to 1v.
 
Tuning for milage says to adjust this type o2 sensor with a resistor on the blue wire and not an EFIE. Which goes back to what I was originaly doing in various ways.
 
So another few days I may test this idea again and see what happens.
ehhget
9/2/2008 1:43:52 PM
Hey guys, if anyone has been reading this topic from the start you may remember I had a fully operational system that I blew up- totally my fault, I was popping the bubbles coming out of the output line in a bowl of water and I pulled the hose out by accident- blew the whole damn thing up. 
It did make me respect the power of the gas being produced as well as make me double think this thing.  Not saying we are idiots (myself included) and my engineering degree does give me some design assistance but there is a lot of stuff to consider here inculding an accident that could lead to dangerous situations.  Also my friend is on the Phoenix Fire Dept and they have gone out to several car fires resulting from these sytems.
I am going to put mine on the shelf for now.  My familys safety is a little more important than saving a couple bucks on gas.  We all have that never happen to me attitude until it does - Im the worst at it but this is something to really be careful with.
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