2001 Chevy Silverado stalls

Hi I recently purchased a 2001 Chevy Silverado 1500 2wd w/5.3L, and some times when I drive it will stall and I see the security light blink 3 times when this happens. When I restart the truck it starts right up without a problem but if I don’t keep taping the gas it will stall, but if the truck stalls and I put it in park and remove the key and put it back in, it starts right up and stays running. I have had one situation where the truck had stalled and I couldn’t restart it for 30min, it would crank but not start, like it was just out of gas. I just went to Auto Zone to have an engine diagnostic but there was 0 codes on the computer, so I am lost and any info would be appreciated.
 
 
Thanks
Ryan

You may want to check your cam and crank sensor.  They can do things like that. 

How do i check him, or should i just change him and hope it was it.


Thanks

Hey I'm having a similar problem with my truck. I have a 2003 Chevy Silverado with the 4.8 L, when I start it and it's in Park or Neutral it runs fine. If I put it in any moving gear, Drive, Reverse, 1, 2, or 3rd it seems to lug down the engine. The voltage gauge goes down and the trucks rpm starts fluctuating. If I slow down or stop it will stall but will start back right away, the stalling doesn't always happen. It's basically fine until I put it in gear and even then it doesn't always stall but the rpm is low and the voltage drops off everytime I put it in gear. Did you get yours fixed?

If you get a haynes manual it should tell you how to check them.  Check your connections on the ignition system too.  I know older GM's would shut off the pump if they weren't firing.

I’m in the process of getting mine fixed right now, are situation sound about the same. The dealer is say its the fuel pump, and im having an hard time believing that, but I am going to change my fuel pump this weekend so write me Sunday or Monday and ill let you know the results.

It could be if you lose very much pressure on a newer car they won't run.

Anyone figure these problems out? I just got a '90 and it's doing the same crap.

hey for the GenIII series check the throttle position sensor.. my truck used to boucne from 400 to 1000 rpms and my voltage would react accordingly...i also thought bad fuel pump/filter but there is a bulletin out for idle problems but im not sure where it is anymore what they do is adjust your minimum idle air for the idle control and put a rubber plug in the butterfly...but what i do is every time i change my oil i pull off the intake tube and spray some throttle body cleaner up in the Idle control valve   port  and i have never had an idle problem since... i change my oil every 10,000 miles... so i guess if you use the 3,000 rule do it every 3 changes...

ok, well, I told my mechanic about the fix holyspatulaboy told about. He had been playing for about a week trying to fix my problem and was severely stumped, so he tried it and poof, no more dieing. But there has to be a better way to fix this other than increasing the idle. I have thought about changing out the ECM, but I am not sure if that would be a solution or not. What would tell the motor to shut down if it falls below a certain RPM ?

quote:

ORIGINAL: Kogaborn

ok, well, I told my mechanic about the fix holyspatulaboy told about. He had been playing for about a week trying to fix my problem and was severely stumped, so he tried it and poof, no more dieing. But there has to be a better way to fix this other than increasing the idle. I have thought about changing out the ECM, but I am not sure if that would be a solution or not. What would tell the motor to shut down if it falls below a certain RPM ?

 
It could be one of the numerous sensors, a code in the engine management system, or it could just be the fact that the rpm isn''t enough to keep it running and it stalls on it''s own.

ahhhh....   do you have chipped key? as if that security light blinks, then something ain''t right with SECURITY items, and chipped key comes to my head first. as if ECM does not recognize the key, it''ll shut down the fuel pump - and you stall, right?
i had a chipped key on my cr-v that won''t start the car once in blue moon. i just hid it in the car as an emergency spare and was using the other key.
hey, try switching keys and see what happens, right?

I''m with holyspatulaboy as far as the TPS, but I didn''t have to adjust the idle.  Just make sure that your are recieving the correct voltage at each pin at the connectors, with and with the TPS loaded. This is just based on experiences with my truck.

it could also be a Mass Air Flow sensor - remove it and clean it with a cotton swab

I have had the same problem, but slightly different. When the vehicle is cold it will start and run fine. After a few minutes of running and when i dropped the speed to about 35 miles an hour it would stall out. The battery light would turn on and the engine oil change reset would activate. I have not noticed the security light flashing, but I will try to pay attention. I just had a triple bypass and I really don''t need this problem right now. What I have noticed is the amp guage would drop at idle. I took my truck to Advance and they said there was nothing wrong with the charging system or battery, but there was a drain on the battery with the ignition off; approx. .98 amps plus or minus. I first suspected a fuel pump. I have been repairing vehicles for a long time, and I really don''t think it''s the fuel pump. At least I hope it''s not. The only problem I have ever had with this vehicle is sometimes after a fill up the check engine light will iluminate. After reaserching, it is the pressure switch in the fuel tank. This tells the computer the cap is not correct. Minor problem. I checked the relay. I don''t think I have ever had to replace one. But one can never tell. I know there is a recall on the guage cluster. I think this is just the start of a problem. I am going to replace the fuel pump for s and giggles and hope for the best. But I think their is a deeper problem at hand. The crank shaft sensor usually prevents the vehicle from starting. Map sensor makes vehicle run rough, but at least lets you run on limp mode. I will check and keep posting until problem is resolved. If you need a question answered or if you would like to respond to me directly. My email is lymansterms@gmail.com

I have had the same problem, but slightly different. When the vehicle is cold it will start and run fine. After a few minutes of running and when i dropped the speed to about 35 miles an hour it would stall out. The battery light would turn on and the engine oil change reset would activate. I have not noticed the security light flashing, but I will try to pay attention. I just had a triple bypass and I really don''t need this problem right now. What I have noticed is the amp guage would drop at idle. I took my truck to Advance and they said there was nothing wrong with the charging system or battery, but there was a drain on the battery with the ignition off; approx. .98 amps plus or minus. I first suspected a fuel pump. I have been repairing vehicles for a long time, and I really don''t think it''s the fuel pump. At least I hope it''s not. The only problem I have ever had with this vehicle is sometimes after a fill up the check engine light will iluminate. After reaserching, it is the pressure switch in the fuel tank. This tells the computer the cap is not correct. Minor problem. I checked the relay. I don''t think I have ever had to replace one. But one can never tell. I know there is a recall on the guage cluster. I think this is just the start of a problem. I am going to replace the fuel pump for s and giggles and hope for the best. But I think their is a deeper problem at hand. The crank shaft sensor usually prevents the vehicle from starting. Map sensor makes vehicle run rough, but at least lets you run on limp mode. I will check and keep posting until problem is resolved. If you need a question answered or if you would like to respond to me directly. My email is lymansterms@gmail.com